The avenues of Athens 80 years ago
Travel guides to Greece, first published in 1930 by Eleftheroudakis,
now reissued in a collector's set.
http://www.ekathimerini.com/4dcgi/_w_articles_civ_1_27/03/2008_94775
By Nikos Vatopoulos - Kathimerini
Views of Athens change rapidly, as travel guides published since 2000
demonstrate.
I enjoy reading what people say about my city. Some visitors, like
Slovenian philosopher Slavoj Zizek, like what he sees as the city's
"confusion," while others, like American composer Jonathan Nossiter,
who loved the old Zonar's cafe, see it as a "treasury of aesthetic
pleasures."
Let's go back to 1930: I'm looking at fresh reprints of the little
travel guides that Eleftheroudakis published then.
A collector's set in a handsome box, it could furnish ample material
for 10 dissertations.
An exotic destination
Tourism had begun in the mid-19 century during the reign of King Otto.
But given the lack of infrastructure, Athens remained an exotic
destination until the 1960s.
However, these guides are written in Greek. Travelers used to come
from Alexandria and Istanbul, and other urban centers with Greek
communities.
An image comes to mind, the sole aerial photograph in "Neoklassiki
architektoniki stin Ellada" (Neoclassical Architecture in Greece), a
volume
published by Emporiki Bank in 1967. Taken in 1932, the photograph
reveals harmony and European style in the tiled roofs of
Panepistimiou,
Stadiou and Academias streets. That's the sight that greeted travelers
who visited with this guide in hand.
They probably would have dropped in at the Eleftheroudakis bookstore
on the corner of Stadiou and Karageorgi Servias streets. Had it not
been
demolished in 1962, it would have appeared in new guidebooks as a
remnant of glorious old urban Europe.
Was it a beautiful city then? Some parts must have been, but the
atmosphere in 1930 was unique. Athens not only boasted antiquities
and clear air, but also the first sparks of modernism, which Henry
Miller noted in "The Colossus of Maroussi."
As Kevin Andrews pointed out in his perceptive work "Athens" (1967),
the harder the city tries to look modern, the more primitive it looks
in its essential truth.
It's all relative, of course – the periodical Diaplasi ton Paidon
referred on March 18, 1906, to "mediocre neighborhood houses,"
which we later idealized – and a guide book is simply a tool.
========================================
June Samaras
KALAMOS BOOKS
(For Books about Greece)
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Streetsville,Ontario
Canada L5M 2V1
Tel : 905-542-1877
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